The persecuted Desoto made its final delivery before coming to a
complete stop as if ordered through divine intervention cease and desist. The
rear axle bowed by fifty years of pot holes, broken boulevards and too many
bodies in too few seats made its final journey. Unless?
Across the city Maurice Del Rio rises every morning dressed in
the same white linen shirt he considers doing business - loads his one prized
commodity a rear axle for a 1958 Desoto. He will pull it in a two wheel cart to
the same intersection adopted as his own retail outlet the past seven years.
Thousands of cars will pass each day - few will stop most looking for Buick,
Chevy, Ford or Oldsmobile parts. Del Rio snubs his nose at that foreign made
shit Lada. The Russians left them as a reminder of what a great sense of humour
they have.
Del Rio plays the Cuban lottery. In his mind he could take home
200, 2000, 20000, pesos depending on the importance of the person in
need.
In 1956 the rumba played all night in his old neighborhood. He
begged his first drink from an American. Del Rio remembers making love in back
alleys and hallways on his way home just as the policia whipped their
batons on the backs of the most violent. He had money made from the tables. He
had debts lost at the same tables. He lived with fear yet he lived.
He was on the side of revolution. Life for him would have been
otherwise brief. He remembers the butchers who collected debts and the cruelty
that followed. Revolution spared him an unceremonious end.
Each day he reflects on the past fifty - five years in isolation
and wonders if the year’s in-between could have been more eventful. He had many
friends, but the same friends. He'd look beyond the broad sea and dreamt of
walking streets in foreign lands, savouring exotic fruits only rumoured to
exist in National Geographic. There were too many moments he felt he would
suffocate from anxiety.
Del Rios grandchildren are much different. They are fully
educated in the sciences and medicine the kind of abilities the world beyond is
looking for - they are specialized not special like his children. He believes
they will one day clear impasse and he will watch his beloved Havana blossom in
front of the world.
Tonight he will have other bowl of ice cream just like
countless nights before. He will watch baseball and tolerate the many soap
operas with so much drama and obvious endings that leak through the walls of
surrounding apartments into his private domain and pour himself one last drink
of rum before surrender.
I
had several moments feeling the suffocating intensity of political stagnation
where past and present don’t relate.
Revolution in Cuba from my vantage was
inevitable. Batista was a murderous scoundrel. The CIA and mob ruled Havana
along with Batista’s thugs. What followed could have been much more than
draconian isolation. I’m always amused by naïve patter about the glory of
communism and the people’s will. Horseshit! People are always pawns either
right or left and the ones who die for the cause or lack of cause.
There
is no reason on God’s earth why Cuba is so disconnected from the rest of the
planet other than fear and manipulation. The embargo is one vile action that
has caused the politicos to hold such a heavy grip on power the other is pure
fantasy - The utopian state.
When
you feed your own scraps of nostalgia you are starving them.
You
can rightly point a finger at American policy of the fifties and sixties where
the most murderous scum of the world were seated in power whether Iran,
Argentina, Guatemala, El Salvador, Chile in a global fight against the scourge
of communism. Add up the deaths and thousands tortured with such a half baked
theory. The age of J. Edgar Hoover!
This
is 2013 and the world has moved on. Vietnam joined the free market twenty years
back – still communist but quietly building a global economy with capitalism at
the core. China won’t budge from its communist dogma but a force in commerce.
We do willing business with both - which leaves us with Cuba. WTF?
Cubans
are much like us. Gregarious, hard working, proud and have big dreams. To me it
feels like one big Italian family. Everyone talks at once. Politics, world
affairs, baseball, soccer, boxing, music – everyone has an opinion. I walk down
a street with my Toronto hat and everyone stops me and talks about the Blue
Jays. I meet former baseball players and all those hanging around speak in
glowing terms of the person who wore cleats and swung a bat at such a high
level in Cuban sports.
Musicians
are revered not Madonna road kill. Pride, pride, pride. If you are a special
musician everyone knows and they celebrate you.
I
went to Havana to photograph but got sidetrack with music. You can’t escape!
No
one has challenged the Castro clan or understands how such a thing is done. There
is very little fear with the young yet they don’t know revolution in modern
terms so they coexist with the past.
From
this vantage point end the embargo and let change happen organically. Timing
couldn’t be better. Republicans are hypocrites and fake Americans. Ignore them.
Just make the move and watch how magically the doors will open!
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